Do you have questions about 3D TV? Below are answers to commonly asked questions about 3D Ready Mitsubishi HDTVs, active shutter glasses, 3D signal types and display formats, HDMI requirements and what you need to get the most out of your 3D home theater. 1. How do I watch 3D content on my Mitsubishi 3D Ready HDTV? Watching 3D content on your Mitsubishi 3D Ready HDTV requires purchasing the 3DA-1 3D Adapter Kit or the 3DC-1000 3D Starter Pack. Both 3D TV kits include the adapter and emitter necessary to receive the HDMI 1.4a signals from your Blu-ray player, cable box, satellite DVR, Sony Playstation 3 PS3 or Xbox 360 and convert them to the checkerboard format. The 3DC-1000 includes LCD active shutter glasses while the 3DA-1 kit does not. 2. What Mitsubishi TVs are compatible with the 3D Adapter Kit/Starter Package? DLP projection HDTVs manufactured in 2007 or later can produce 3D effects. Here is a complete list of compatible Mitsubishi TVs: 2007 WD-57833, WD-65833, WD-73833 (3D feature called "FX Gaming") 2008 WD-60735, WD-60C8, WD-65735, WD-65736, WD-65835, WD-65C8, WD-73735, WD-73736, WD-73835, WD-73C8, L65-A90 2009 WD-60737, WD-60C9, WD-65737, WD-65837, WD-65C9, WD-73737, WD-73837, WD-73C9, WD-82737, WD-82837 2010 WD-60638, WD-60C10, WD-60738, WD-65638, WD-65C10, WD-65738, WD-65838, WD-73638, WD-73C10, WD-73738, WD-73838, WD-82738, WD-82838, L75-A91 3. What is different about the new 3D TV technology, and can everyone experience it? The last several years have seen huge jumps in 3D technology, with numerous platforms being developed and cinemas around the world deploying 3D systems. But the biggest jump has been from the throw-away anaglyph (red/cyan) glasses to the home theater active shutter glasses. This new technology allows viewers to experience 3D content in their own home with higher contrast, higher resolution and better color than the stereoscopic glasses of old. While the vast majority of viewers can experience 3D content, some people suffer from stereo blindness, which means the added depth of 3D will appear 2D. But wearing the glasses will retain the intended appearance of the content but will lack the 3D punch available to regular-sighted viewers. And if you wear prescription glasses, the active shutter glasses are designed to fit over/in front of your normal glasses. Contact lens wearers are not affected. 4. Are 3D glasses absolutely necessary? Yes. When your TV is in 3D mode it displays an image that appears distorted without 3D glasses. While the images may be discernible without 3D glasses, there will be no added depth and the distortion may cause discomfort. 5. Will I have to buy all new components to get 3D content? If you have a standard Blu-ray Disc player then you will have to upgrade. There are models specifically designed for 3D playback and are marketed as such. It's possible that manufacturers will provide updates for older players, but it's more likely that they will stop producing non-3D players and push 3D versions instead. Both Sony PS3 and Xbox 360 have games and settings that allow 3D content to be displayed properly on your Mitsubishi HDTV. Plus, more games, movies, shows and sports are being produced in 3D, so check with your cable or satellite provider for details. 6. Can I use my existing HDMI cable or do I have to upgrade? If you have an HDMI category 2 high speed cable (or better) you are fine. The HDMI standards allow for varying degrees of bandwidth and features, so if you have a good cable from the last couple years it will be compatible with the 1.4a standards required by 3D. Of course upgrading your cable to an actual 1.4 version is recommended because the new cables incorporate an Ethernet channel, return audio and general improvements associated with technology and design improvements. 7. Is there 3D content available to watch or should I wait? Don't wait. The major motion picture companies have produced and are distributing 3D films on Blu-ray, and cable companies such as Comcast, Time Warner and Cox Communications have begun providing 3D content. Satellite providers DirecTV and DISH Network are making 3D movies and sports a top priority, and ESPN plans to have major sporting events in 3D very soon. In short, 3D is here and is catching on fast - it will soon be mainstream. 8. Are Mitsubishi 3D Ready HDTVs compatible with DLP Link glasses? Yes. All Mitsubishi 3D Ready HDTVs are compatible with DLP Link glasses. Plus, the TVs have a VESA jack so non-DLP Link glasses can be synchronized. 9. Are all 3D active shutter glasses the same, and are they cross-compatible? No and no. Active shutter glasses have to be synchronized to the TV to work properly and create the 3D effects. But there are many types of glasses: some are infrared (IR), some use Bluetooth or radio frequency (RF), just like some are meant for DLP displays and others just for LCDs. So make sure that when you purchase your TV and 3D kit they are designed to work with each other, and if your friends want to bring their glasses be sure to make sure they will work. 10. What is the difference between a 3D signal the the 3D TV display pattern? The 3D signal is the information sent from the source (like a Blu-ray player) to the TV or adapter. That data is then converted into a display pattern of a certain format. Mitsubishi HDTVs use checkerboard. There are three types of signals that are converted to checkerboard: Frame Packing: super-high resolution 3D signal that requires a lot of bandwidth so is not suitable for satellite or cable systems, just Blu-ray players and gaming systems. The typical signal is 1080p/24fps or 720p/60fps. Side-by-Side: these 3D signals contain two frames - one for each eye - that are suitable for satellite and cable transmissions. They are also suitable for Blu-ray discs. The typical signal is 1080p/24fps, 1080p/30fps, 1080i/60fps or 720p/60fps. Top-Bottom: Just like the signal type above, only the frames are split in half the other way. These 3D signals contain two frames - one for each eye - that are suitable for satellite and cable transmissions. They are also suitable for Blu-ray discs. The typical signal is 1080p/24fps, 1080p/30fps, 1080i/60fps or 720p/60fps.
As we spend more time at home watching on-demand movies, Blu-ray and enjoying internet content through our home theaters, people want more bass. But adding additional subwoofers means running cables -- expensive cables that look bad, trip you if not installed right, or may have to be installed inside your walls! But there is a new and better way to enjoy more bass: Boston Acoustic Wireless Subwoofers. Keep reading for details about how easy it is to add more bass by using wireless subwoofers. Boston Acoustics Wireless Subwoofers There are three models of subwoofers to choose from, all of which use the same wireless transmitter. The wireless transmitter hooks up to your home theater receiver and can control up to four (4!) subwoofers. The subwoofers simply plug into an AC outlet, so placement is convenient and setup is a breeze. Boston Acoustics WT-50 Wireless Transmitter Boston Acoustics CPS-8WI (8 inch, 350 watt powered sub) Boston Acoustics CPS-10WI (10 inch, 650 watt powered sub) Boston Acoustics CPS-12WI (12 inch, 800 watt powered sub) Uses 2.4GHz radio for wireless The wireless subwoofer system uses 2.4GHz radio, a reliable industry standard widely use in home theatre and computing applications. What matters most is that the subwoofers can be placed up to 50ft. from the transmitter, allowing you to place the subs in spots that produce the best bass response but would otherwise be difficult or impossible to install with traditional wire connections; Boston Acoustics wireless subs can truly be "out of sight, out of mind". Make your home theater sound and feel like the cinema with wireless subwoofers from Boston Acoustics. Need help deciding? Questions? Call 1-866-224-6171 and talk with one of our Boston Acoustic custom installation experts. They have decades of custom install experience and can guide you through the purchase and setup process, and can even dispatch technicians to do the job for you! They can also assist with finding accessories and main components for your home theater system, whole house audio and other electronics needs.
The new Bose® Mobile Headsets are here and work with many of your favorite music and smart phones, including the Apple iPhone®. Below you'll find a table showing which adapter is needed (some don't need one). Keep reading for the entire compatibility chart and links to the product pages so you can get your own pair! Bose® Mobile In-Ear/On-Ear Headset Compatibility No Adapter Needed Circle Triangle Diamond Apple iPhone Nokia 6300 LG Voyager Blackberry 8800 Blackberry Curve Nokia 5300 LG Venus Blackberry 8830 Blackberry Pearl (excl. 8100) Nokia 6120 LG Decoy (VX8610) Blackberry 8100 Blackberry Pearl Flip Nokia E51 LG enV (VX9900) Blackberry Storm Nokia 6500 Slide LG enV 2 (VX9100) LG Dare (VX9700) Nokia E71 LG Chocolate 2 (VX8559 LK) LG Chocolate 3 (VX8560) Nokia 6220 Classic LG Chocolate (VX8500/TG800) Motorola Rokr Nokia E62 LG VX8100 Motorola Krave Nokia 3500 LG VX8300 T-Mobile Sidekick Palm Treo 500 LG VX8600 Palm Treo 650 LG VX8700 Palm Treo 680 LG VX9400 Palm Treo 700w/wx Motorola Rizr Z6TV Motorola Q Series Motorola E815 Motorola V360 The Bose® In-Ear Headsets information: Features Overview Inline microphone Inline answer/end button Make calls with one-touch ease Experience calls and music with Bose® quality audio Comfortable in-ear style Features Specific Quality audio performance from small, in-ear headphones made possible with Bose® proprietary technologies. Omnidirectional, inline microphone for easy mobile phone communications and fast switching between music and calls. You don't have to hold the microphone to be heard clearly. Answer/end button, built into the same small capsule as the inline microphone, lets you take calls with one-touch ease?and switch back to your music just as quickly. Stereo headphones deliver Bose quality sound for your music and calls. Comfortable in-ear headphone design includes contoured, soft silicone tips that rest gently in the outer bowl of the ear, not the ear canal. S, M and L removable silicone tips for an adjustable, personal fit. Angled 3.5 mm plug for direct connections to mobile phones with recessed jacks, including Apple® iPhoneTM, and to MP3/CD/DVD players and laptops with standard headphone jacks. Three 2.5 mm adapters for extensive compatibility with a wide range of music phones. Stability-enhancing lanyard and clothing clip help keep headphones in place when you're on the move. Protective carrying case for storing headset, adapters and a portable device. The Bose® On-Ear Headsets information: Features Overview NEW inline microphone NEW inline answer/end button NEW one-touch convenience Made for mobile phones that are music enabled Famous Bose® audio quality Extremely comfortable Headband is collapsible for easy storage Seamless switching between music and phone calls Inline microphone,cable connector and adapters included Compatible with Apple® iPhoneTM, MP3 players, laptops, CD players, etc. Features Specifics High-performance headphones with small, pivoting earcups that rest gently on your ears. Proprietary cushions enhance audio performance and stay comfortable for hours. Omnidirectional, inline microphone for easy mobile phone communications and fast switching between music and calls. You don't have to hold the microphone to be heard clearly. Answer/end button, built into the same small capsule as the inline microphone, lets you take calls with one-touch ease?and switch back to your music just as quickly. Adjustable, collapsible headband has up to three inches of adjustment in headband length. Earcups fold up into the headband for increased portability and easy storage. Single-earcup audio cable attaches to just one earcup for greater convenience and less tangling than conventional Y-cables. Angled 3.5 mm plug for direct connections to mobile phones with recessed jacks, including Apple® iPhoneTM, and to MP3/CD/DVD players and laptops with standard headphone jacks. Three 2.5 mm adapters for extensive compatibility with a wide range of music mobile phones. Protective carrying case for storing headset, adapters and a portable device.
When entertaining outdoors, what you really want is smooth, even sound throughout the entire listening area. To achieve this goal, Niles makes two basic types of weatherproof outdoor loudspeakers: conventional stereo and stereo input (SI). Conventional stereo is the two-speaker, the left and right setup that we all know and love. Not as well known is stereo input. These loudspeakers provide blended stereo sound from a single enclosure. When designing outdoor systems, it really helps to understand the advantages of each and what all the options are. Why settle for so-so when you can have a system that really rocks? Scenario 1: Stereo sound for a patio with a central, fixed listening area In this application, the setup is a typical patio with a relatively fixed listening area: a table and chairs where people gather. Since most of the listening will be in this one area, the best solution is a pair of Niles OS Indoor/Outdoor Loudspeakers mounted on the wall wired to play stereo sound. Since the listeners are in the "sweet spot," they are positioned to enjoy the best possible stereo imaging. The sound will be spacious with a realistic soundstage of music filling the area. Scenario 2: Blended stereo for a patio with multiple listening areas What happens if you step out of the "sweet spot?" This setup has multiple listening areas: people mingling at different spots on the deck. Sometimes, these listening areas are not located in the stereo "sweet spot" described in Scenario 1, so the listener's ability to hear the stereo image is diminished because of their proximity to just one speaker. One speaker becomes dominant, masking the sound of the other. The solution is a pair of Niles stereo input (SI) loudspeakers. SI loudspeakers produce blended stereo sound from a single cabinet by utilizing two properly positioned tweeters and a dual voice coil woofer. The stereo imaging and spaciousness may not be as good as the "sweet spot" using conventional stereo loudspeakers, but you get even coverage of stereo-like sound. There are SI versions of all Niles outdoor loudspeakers -- OS, Rocks, and Planters -- so you have plenty of designs to choose from. Scenario 3: Background music for a patio with multiple listening areas In setups where the music is mainly played in the background or where people are constantly moving, consider wiring the loudspeakers for mono (non-stereo) sound. In this scenario, each loudspeaker plays a combination of both stereo channels, eliminating the sweet spot limitations of stereo. Of course you'll lose the stereo effects in the music, but for background listening it's a reasonable compromise. To wire for mono sound, the zone preamp outputs of the multizone receiver are connected to a separate power amplifier using two "Y" adapters. This effectively combines the left and right channels into one. Or you can use a Niles 12-Channel Systems Integration AmplifierTM. It provides a simple way to configure channels for stereo or mono (L + R). If you have questions or would like to create a system for your home or business, call and talk with one of our sales representatives at 1-866-224-6171 or visit the Whole House Audio/Video System Design page. We look forward to hearing from you!
The weather's warming up, the BBQ grills are coming out, and everyone's starting to think about outdoor entertaining. It's time to turn to Your Electronic Warehouse for everything you need to create the perfect outdoor sound system. This article will give you some tips on outdoor speaker placement including proper speaker positioning, adding multiple speakers to cover larger areas and the placement of outdoor volume controls. Placement Tip #1 Position Speakers Between 12' to 15' of the Listening Area This guideline may sound simple, but it's amazing how often it's ignored. By positioning your outdoor speakers between 12' to 15' of the listening area, you provide quality sound for the listeners at comfortable volume levels -- without the need for huge amounts of amplifier power. In this illustration to the right, the primary listening area is the table on the deck. To ensure good sound for the listeners, we're using a pair of outdoor speakers on the wall approximately 12' away. Another option would be a couple of Niles Audio Planter Speakers along the wall or along the side of the deck. You will get more sound projection the higher you mount your speakers which will extend the listening area. Most outdoor speakers include mounting brackets that allow you to adjust the tilt of the speaker. The speakers should be angled down to project within the 12' to 15' range. Angling your speakers down will also assist with proper drainage for wet locations. When selecting outdoor speakers, be sure to choose speakers that will provide enough bass for a satisfying listening experience. Mounting your outdoor speakers close to a wall or other solid surface will increase the bass performance of your speakers. When positioning speakers outside, be sure to select speakers that are rated for extreme conditions and are designed as outdoor speakers . For example, Niles Audio Outdoor Speakers exceed the military's anti-corrosion specs (MIL-STD-883D). Placement Tip #2 More Loudspeakers Are Better Than More Power When you have an oversized or a particularly large outdoor area, it's always better to add more speakers than more power. In this setup we'll start with the same listening area from tip #1, but we'll add a pool area that's 30' away. You could just boost the amplifier power so the patio speakers play loud enough to reach the pool, but that would just blast the ears of our listeners at the table. The solution in this example is more speakers, not more power. In this illustration, we added a pair of Niles GeoRealistic™ rock speakers and a pair of Niles Planter Speakers hidden in the landscaping, placed approximately 12’ from the pool. Now with proper speaker placement, the guests sitting at the table can enjoy music at a comfortable volume level, while everyone in the pool also gets just the right amount of sound. Everyone’s happy and the party rocks. Placement Tip #3 Provide Volume Controls for Each Listening Area Ideally, each listening area should be equipped with a way to adjust the volume. A volume control or keypad in each listening area will do just that. You want the people sitting at the table to be able to adjust their music to a comfortable level while allowing the swimmers in the pool to enjoy their music at their own volume level. Individual zone volume controls are the best solution for large, single zone outdoor areas with multiple listening areas. In this illustration, Niles WMVC100E Weatherproof Muting Stereo Volume Controls are positioned for easy access near the hot tub and the deck. To adequately power all these loudspeakers, a Niles SI-1260 12-Channel Systems Integration Amplifier would do an excellent job. Of course, if your outdoor area is made up of more than one zone, a combination of the two above scenarios might be appropriate. So keep in mind the importance of volume controls. It will make the difference between a good outdoor sound system and a truly great one. If you have questions or would like to create a system for your home or business, call and talk with one of our sales representatives at 1-866-224-6171 or visit the Whole House Audio/Video System Design page. We look forward to hearing from you!
"Which one should I buy?" Trying to sort through the onslaught of technical jargon and conflicting advice usually ends with the customer making a rash decision driven by a desire to end the headaches and waiting instead of accurate and helpful information. We've already discussed the differences between resolutions (eg: 720p vs. 1080p ) and the importance of investing in HD technology (eg: digital transition in February 2009 ), but little has been said about screen size, viewing distance, or which panel technology is right for particular conditions and uses. Below you will find information to help you determine if you should buy a DLP , plasma , or LCD ; how big of a screen you should get; what the different technologies are best at doing; and how and where to position yourself/TV to maximize your HD experience.The first task is to determine what you will be doing with your HDTV . Will you be watching standard definition cable or Blu-ray movies? Will the TV be in a brightly-lit kitchen or a dark basement? Is the ceiling low or high, and is the room small or large? I have created a table to make deciding which HDTV technology is right for you. Now that you've determined what you'll be using the TV for, the viewing conditions, and addressed any personal concerns, it's time to figure out the size of the TV and the viewing distance. Keep in mind that the ranges are approximate and are intended as a guide; they work both ways: if you know your viewing distance you can pick the right size screen, or you can pick a TV and then arrange your furniture as needed, but personal preference always trumps formulas and suggestions. Remember that higher-quality content such as HD movies, satellite, and computer content allows for closer viewing, but low-quality content such as basic cable and up-scaled DVDs is best viewed from greater distances. This is because HD content has more detail and fewer artifacts, enabling closer viewing without distractions or noticing pixel structures. Here are the suggested ranges (in feet) and TV screen size (measured diagonally). Through the entire process it is crucial to keep things in perspective: many Americans spend over 4 hours a day in front of their TVs, or some 1,600+ hours per year (households watch for 8+ hrs/day), and many are integrating their computers, gaming systems, and photo viewing into the TV system. Thus, investing in a large, quality HDTV will mean an enriched media experience. And let's not forget smaller TVs for the kitchen and office and medium sized TVs for bedrooms and multi-use areas. So as content continues to rush toward full-HD and viewing time increases, it's absolutely critical to have TVs that natively display 1920 x 1080p, have multiple HDMI inputs, and have high contrast, high-color panels. Of course having an HDTV is useless without HD content, which means you must have satellite with HD channels, digital cable with HD channels, a Blu-ray or HD-DVD player, HD antenna, gaming systems such as the PS3 or Xbox 360 , a compatible computer or media device, and all the necessary cables and configurations. And let's not forget sound - we are audio beings as much as visual, so a surround sound system is necessary to complete the HD experience and immerse yourself in the content. Fortunately we have blog articles that cover all this, and we sell the HDTVs , Blu-ray players, speakers and home theater systems , and all the accessories you need to get up and running. Check out these blogs for more information: How to get the most out of your HDTV, Part I: The Basics How to get the most out of your HDTV, Part II: Connecting your HD System Warning: The Wrong HDMI Cables Will Ruin Your Home Theater Experience What's the Difference Between 1080p, 1080i, 720p and Other Resolutions? Bose® Introduces its Lifestyle® V20 and V30 Home Theater Systems
Have you ever needed to run an audio or video cable hundreds of feet but couldn't find a cable long enough to do it? An audio or video balun is a very easy way to complete a job that requires extremely long runs of video or audio cable from room to room using a CAT 5 cable. Whether you need to run analog audio, digital coax, RF, S-video, composite or component cables over long lengths a balun can complete the job using CAT-5. For those of you who are unfamiliar with baluns, let me give you a quick definition of the functionality of a balun. A balun is a type of transformer: it's used to convert an unbalanced signal to a balanced one or vice versa. Baluns isolate a transmission line and provide a balanced output. Baluns also allow a device to be placed an extended distance from the system it is connected with. Baluns can be installed by following the directions in the package or professionally depending on preference. Here is how a balun is connected. This is an example of an S-Video balun but the setup is similar for every type of Balun. Each owners manual includes a connection diagram like this one. What Is Needed To Complete an A/V System with a balun? Two of the same kind of baluns (example: two S-Video Baluns, you can mix in-wall and component (on-wall) baluns) one for the initial connection and one for the secondary The correct length of CAT-5 cable to connect the two baluns Baluns come as either in-wall or component units depending on the job you need to do. If you are a do-it-yourself type of person, here are the steps to installing an audio or video balun. Turn off all power to equipment prior to installation Run CAT-5 Wire from balun to balun (VGA balun requires grounded CAT-5) Do NOT share any other signals on the CAT-5 cables other than the signals being extended by the CAT-5 baluns Crimp RJ45 ends on both ends of the CAT-5 Wire, Terminate all cables as straight through T-568A termination Install baluns using retrofit box on or in wall (depending on the type of balun) where CAT-5 ends come out Plug CAT-5 Wire into baluns Connect proper cable (component video, S-Video, digital coaxial, etc...) Power Up Equipment A balun can be the perfect solution for a hard to reach install or one that is going to require a longer than usual cable. A baluns max range can vary depending on the type of connection it is (the longer you go the harder to maintain signal). If you need to get an audio or video signal from one room to another and can't find a cable long enough to do it, a balun will do the job. Max Length For Types of Baluns Type Max Distance (CAT-5 UTP) Analog Audio 2500' Digital Audio 600' Composite Video (RCA) - Color 2200' Composite Video (RCA) - B&W 2500' Component Video - 480i/480p 1000' Component Video - 720p/1080i 500' S-Video 500' RF-Cable 330' VGA (640x480 & 800x600) 330' VGA (1024x768) 250' VGA (1280x1024) 160'
Bose® Lifestyle® Home Theater Systems are best known for having excellent sound quality while blending seamlessly into any home decor. Bose products are well known for being extremely user friendly and simple to hook-up. What most people don't know however, is how a Bose Lifestyle® System can be used as the media hub for a multi-room or whole house audio system. Bose is constantly finding innovative ways to simplify installation and to create the most user friendly systems available. By using a patented technology called Bose Link®, Bose has given customers great tools to create a professional looking home theater setup that can also control sound in other rooms of the home. There are several products that can be used to complete a whole house audio system. The best feature of the Bose Lifestyle® whole house audio system is it's capability of controlling two different music streams from up to 14 different rooms of your house. This means that a person can be listening to one audio source in one room, and someone else can be listening to a second audio source from another room. It Starts with the Lifestyle® System The Media Center of the Bose Lifestyle® System has two specific functions. First and foremost it is the main controller for an exceptional home theater surround sound system. Controlling five speakers and a subwoofer to fill the theater room with exquisite sound from either the built in single disc DVD/CD player or any one of the other five audio sources including stored uMusic® (not available on all systems). The Lifestyle® Media Center also incorporates a progressive scan DVD player with exceptional picture quality, an AdaptIQ® feature that automatically tunes and adjusts the sound to the acoustics of the room, as well as a feature called Bose Link for incorporation of distributed audio throughout the home. When the Bose Link feature of the Lifestyle® System is used, the media center functions not only as a home theater controller but also as the main control unit of the whole house audio system. A Bose system has the ability to allow two different audio streams simultaneously in two different areas of the house. This is done with Bose Link technology using Bose SA-2® or SA-3® amplifiers and a Bose second zone remote compatible with each particular Lifestyle® system. Expanding Your Bose Lifestyle® System With the Bose Link Technology it makes it very easy to expand your system into other rooms of the house and even outside. Let's take a look at the specific products necessary to set up a Bose Link controlled theater and whole house audio system. The Main System Control Your Bose Lifestyle® System Media Center will control the audio in all the other rooms of your house from one centralized location. Choose from one of the following: Bose Lifetyle® 48 The Bose Lifestyle 48 is Bose's premier Lifestyle system and features premium Jewel Cube speaker arrays and 340 hours of uMusic storage. Bose Lifestyle® 38 The Bose Lifestyle 38 has Bose's standard cube speaker arrays and 200 hours of uMusic storage. Bose Lifestyle® 35 The Bose Lifestyle 35 features jewel cube speakers but does not have uMusic. Bose Lifestyle® 28 The Bose Lifestyle 28 is the entry level Lifestyle System with standard cube speaker arrays. Second Zone Remote Control Each room, or zone, will need it's own specialized remote to control what happens in that particular room. The remotes function on a Radio Frequency signal so it is not necessary to point them in a specific direction. The second zone remotes options for the different systems are: Personal® Music Center II (PMCII) - Recommended for Lifestyle® owners with uMusic (Lifestyle® 38 & 48) - Gives full access to the uMusic Library with on screen menus RC-38S - Provides access and control of your Lifestyle® 38 or 48 DVD home entertainment system from many locations around your house, even outdoors. RC-18S - Gives you access to and control of your Lifestyle® 28 Series II system and most audio/video sources attached to it, such as TV, VCR and Satellite or Cable box. Bose Lifestyle Second Zone Amplifier A Bose Link amplifier works in direct correlation with the Bose Lifestyle® Media Center to bring great Bose sound anywhere in the home. The multiple amps are connected directly to the Media Center and are controlled by the second zone remote controls. The remotes control the audio source and the volume level in each room independently. An amplifier is needed for each additional room of the house that sound is wanted. (The Bose Roommate Speaker has a built in amplifier and does not need an external amplifier) There are two different external amplifiers that are available: Bose Lifestyle® SA-3 100 Watt Amplifier recommended for AM5, 251, Free Space 51, or any room with a local source. A local source would be a television or any other audio source that you would want to play through your integrated speakers in the additional room. Bose Lifestyle® SA-2 40 Watt Amplifier recommended for the 161®, 201®, 151®, and 191® speakers and any room without a local source Speaker Options Tabletop Speaker with integrated Amplifier Bose Roommate® - This counter top speaker solution is the easiest Lifestyle® Expansion option. It has a built in amplifier, comes with the PMCII remote control and can be paired with the AL8 wireless package, for an easy, wireless setup. In Wall / In Ceiling Speakers 191® - The Bose 191 is a very versatile speaker that can be used as either an in-wall or an in-ceiling speaker. A rectangular speaker grill cover comes in the box for the in-wall application use as well as a round grill cover to use with in-ceiling placement. The speaker itself has its own back box that acts as an acoustic chamber to help deliver good crisp mid-range and low end frequencies. This is a great speaker that can be used in many different applications. Outdoor Speakers 251® - The Bose 251 Environmental Speaker is the largest of the outdoor speaker family. These speakers have a unique design that allows the speaker to reproduce extreme lows and good clean highs. It is designed with its own mounting bracket that gives the speaker the capabilities of tilting up and down once mounted. FreeSpace 51 - Ground speakers that offer exceptionally broad, even coverage due to a radial design that enables 360-degree sound dispersion. The FreeSpace 51 has a weather-resistant casing that can withstand even extreme weather conditions. They deliver uncompromising sound that can be completely hidden in the landscaping. 151® - These entry level outdoor speakers from Bose give good overall sound from a small, wall mounted speaker. This speaker would be recommended for smaller coverage areas. Bookshelf Speakers 161® - These are great for background music playing at low to moderate levels. These speakers are sold with a wall bracket so the speaker can be mounted or just set on a shelf. 201® - These speakers offer a 6-1/2 inch driver with a 1 inch tweeter to deliver full range of music. Designed as a traditional bookshelf speaker the 201's incorporate a moderately small cabinet but deliver a great sound. 301® - The Bose 301 offers an 8 inch driver with two 1 inch tweeters - one firing to the front of the speaker and the other firing out of the side rear to use Bose's patented Direct Reflecting technology. These speakers like to get loud and deliver at any volume level. On Wall Speakers Bose Acoustimass® 5 - Also know as the AM5, these speakers take from the same design as the Lifestyle 28 and 38 speakers incorporating an Acoustimass bass module with a cross-over point specified for the cube speakers. The single cube speaker can be mounted on the wall via an optional wall bracket (UB-20), however, the speakers must be wired through the Acoustimass module to work properly. Secondary Home Theater Systems Bose 321® GS - Just two visible Gemstone speaker arrays make up Bose's smallest, most powerful 2 speaker system available. An Acoustimass® module is also included to deliver enhanced sound performance from almost anything you watch. Setup is simple: No center or rear speakers means no wiring to the back of your room. An elegant media center features a progressive scan DVD/CD player with AM/FM tuner. Bose 321® GSX - For those of you who love music and movies but would rather have the simplicity of less speakers and wires. The 3·2·1® GSX® system is the Bose® premium selection in the 3·2·1 system family offering the benefit of music storage. It delivers much of the performance of a five-speaker home theater solution, with an intelligent approach to music. Wireless Expansion Options The example we use below uses a hard wired connection for each room, but for ease of installation, the Bose AL8® Homewide Wireless Audio Link can be used in conjunction to a wired solution to provide sound wirelessly in up to 8 rooms. The transmitter in the AL8 needs to be connected to the Bose Lifestyle® system, then the amplifier for the room's speakers is plugged in to the receiver of the AL8. Up to 7 additional receivers (Bose AL-1® ) can be purchased for a total of 8 wireless rooms. Bose Whole House Wiring Example Here is a diagram of how a Bose Link whole house solution would work. This is an example of a house completely wired with Bose sound. The Pre-Wire When building a new home, it is essential to have all of the wiring down before the dry-wall is hung. As shown above, there are a number of cables needed to properly wire for a Bose whole house audio system. The first step is to decide where the amplifiers are going to be housed for the different rooms of audio. The most common place in a new construction home would be the control room, or an unfinished part of a basement. Once the location is determined Bose System Cable II must be ran to that location from the room that will house the Bose Lifestyle® Media Center, this will typically be the theater room. This cable is how the Media Center will communicate with the amplifiers. Once this cable is in place it is now time to figure out where the speakers are going to be placed in the specific rooms. Speaker wire must be pulled to these locations from the control room. If there are to be Roommates or additional 321 systems used in some rooms, those particular rooms will require system cable to be pulled instead of speaker wire, as shown in the diagram for rooms E and F. Don't forget about the theater room. Speaker wire must be pulled to each of the five speaker locations within that room from the location of the Lifestyle® Bass Module. Now that we have all of our wires in place, let's take a look at the equipment and hook-up in every room. Structured Wiring Panel Parts Used: Bose System Cable II (1), Bose System Cable II Exapansion Hub (2), Bose Link A-Source Cable (3), 3 Bose SA-3 Amplifiers (4,5,6), 2 Bose Link Extension/Expansion Cables (7,8), Bose Local Source Input/Output Cable (9), Bose Single Source/Destination Plate (10), Bose System Cable II (11) In our example we are running two of the rooms with non-traditional speaker applications. Therefore we ran system cable from the control room to each of those rooms. Because of that we will have to wire in a System Cable Expansion Hub to distribute that signal. The System Cable that is coming from the theater room is wired directly into the input on the hub. The two runs of system cable that are going to room E and room F are then wired into two of the outputs on the hub. A Bose Link A-Source cable is then connected from the output on the hub to the input on the first SA-3 amplifier. The other two SA-3 amplifiers are then connected to one another via the Bose Link Expansion Cables. Lastly, the speaker wires are connected to the amplifiers for the remaining rooms. The equipment installed in the structured wiring panel will be the foundation to your whole house audio solution. Next we will walk through each room on our diagram to explain what equipment is being used and how it is connected to the system. Refer to the diagram with each step to give yourself a visual aid of the connections. Room B - Bedroom Parts Used: TV, Speaker Wire, Bose Single Source/Destination Plate (12), Bose Local Source Input/Output Cable (13) Bose 191 Speakers (14), PMC® II Remote (15) The setup in Room B allows you to both listen to music from the Lifestyle® System in your home theater room or get audio from the TV in Room B. For this setup to work, both the speakers and the TV have to be connected to the Room B SA-3 amplifier. The TV audio is connected to the SA-3 amplifier(6) by running the Bose Local Source Input/Output cable(13) from the TV's audio output to the Single Source Destination Plate (12). This connects the TV audio to the Room B amplifier(6) using the Bose System Cable II(11). Next the speaker wire is run from the 191 speakers(14) to the SA-3 amplifier. Now that Room B is connected to the home theater room, the PMC® II remote is used to let the user either listen to the TV's audio or listen to the radio, auxiliary input, CD/DVD or U-Music from the Lifestyle® System in the Home Theater Room. Room C - Dining Room Parts Used: Speaker Wire, Bose 191 Speakers (16), Bose PMC® II Remote (17) Room C is a pretty straight forward setup, the 191 speakers are connected by speaker wire to the Room C SA-3 amplifier in the structured wiring panel. This allows the user to listen to audio from the Lifestyle System in the home theater room by utilizing the PMC®-II remote. *Even though the diagram shows the speakers connected to an SA-3 amp, we suggest an SA-2 amp. The difference between the SA-2 and SA-3 is the SA-3 has an auxiliary input and 100 watts of power while the SA-2 has no auxiliary input and has 40 watts of power. For a room inside the house that is just using speakers the SA-2 will be the more practical option and will also cost less. Room D - Patio Parts Used: Speaker Wire, Bose Freespace 51 speakers(18), Bose PMC®-II Remote (19) Room D (Patio) has practically the same setup as Room C, the tricky part is getting your speaker wire from the inside of your house to the outside and burying it underneath the ground to attach to the speakers. Other than the basic installation of the speaker wire, the only thing you have to do is connect the Freespace 51 speakers to the SA-3 amp with speaker wire. Even though this is the same type of setup as Room C, an SA-3 Amp is used to give extra power to the speakers that will be located furthest away from the Lifestyle®. The PMC®-II remote will allow you to control the music coming from the Lifestyle® System. *Although the diagram uses Freespace 51 speakers which rest on the ground, Bose also has the 151 and 251 outdoor speaker models which can mount to the side of the house. Room E - Playroom Parts Used: Bose System Cable II (20), Bose Single Source/Destination Plate (21), Bose Link B Source Connection Cable (22), Bose Lifestyle® 321 GS or 321 GSX (23), Bose PMC® II Remote (24) Since Room E has a Bose 321 System in it, the main functionality of Bose Link in this room will be to use the U-music from the Lifestyle® System in the other room. The installation in this room is very simple, attach a Bose System Cable II from the expansion hub (2) to the Single Source/Destination Plate (21). From there a Bose Link B Source Connection Cable is needed to connect the 321 System to the wall plate. Although the Bose 321 GS and 321 GSX both come with a remote, we recommend using a PMC® II Remote in order to easily use the U-Music from the Lifestyle® System in the Home Theater Room. Room F - Kitchen Parts Used: Bose System Cable II (25), Bose Single Source/Destination Plate (26), Bose Link B Source Connection Cable(27), Bose Roommate Speaker (28), Bose PMC®-II Remote (29) Room F has identical connections to Room E, the only thing different is that Room F uses a Bose Roommate Speaker to play audio from the Lifestyle System in the Home Theater Room. The Bose System Cable II(25) wires into the expansion hub(2) which connects it to the Single Source/Destination plate (26), a Bose Link B Source Connection Cable (27) connects the Roommate Speaker (28) to the rest of the Bose Link System. Once again you can control which audio source you want to use by selecting it on the Bose PMC-II remote. Note: Each Bose Remote in the house can (and should) be set to control its respective zone so it doesn't interfere with others in the house. Summary This diagram is an example of an entire house filled with Bose sound. Understand that as long as you have a Lifestyle®® System you can choose one, or all of these options for Bose Link Expansion. Although this seems like a very complex installation project, it is much easier than mixing and matching parts to form a similar system. Bose Link is both the easiest and cleanest way to achieve whole house audio solutions. Questions - Free Design Service If you still have questions, or would like free design assistance from one of our custom installation specialists, give us a call at 1-866-224-6171.
Now that you know what components and connections to use for your High Definition System you need to know how to properly connect everything to your home theater system . This is a very crucial part of the process because a wrong connection can cause you a problem that you may mistake as a flaw in the component itself. Connecting HD components to a TV or home theater system is not as complicated as many people think. Inputs can look intimidating but are actually very easy to figure out once you know what they are used for. There are so many different options you can choose in order to connect HD components and I obviously can't go over all of them, that would take forever. To make things easier I will go over the most commonly used approach which is through a home theater system consisting of a TV , Receiver and whatever components you are connecting to the receiver. If you are hooking components straight into your TV without a home theater system simply cut out the steps that involve the receiver and go straight to the TV. Set Up Your Home Theater System First Before you start connecting all of your components to your receiver or TV, make sure you have the basics down first. Set up all your speakers in the position you want them, connect them to the receiver , make sure your TV is plugged in and get all your components arranged in your cabinet or stand and plug them all in. Make sure again that all of your components and cables are the correct ones for your system. Once you have the basics down everything from here on out should be fairly easy. Connect your Receiver to Your TV Connect your HDMI Cables and/or Component Video Cables from the HDMI and Component Video Outputs on your Reciever to the proper Inputs on your TV. This is very important, the signal must be passed from your component to the receiver and then to the TV or you won't have a picture. Connecting with HDMI This is probably the easiest connection you will ever have to make since it only involves one cable. There are many different components that are HDMI compatible: Blu-Ray Disc Players , HD DVD Players, DVD Players and Cable/Sattelite Boxes just to name a few. An HDMI connection requires a single plug-in from your component to your receiver or TV. If you are hooking up a Blu-Ray Disc Player or similar component, simply connect the HDMI cable from the output on your Blu-Ray to one of the HDMI inputs on your receiver. If you are connecting a high definition cable box/satellite receiver you will need to connect your cable wire from the wall to the input jack on your cable/satellite box, then connect the HDMI cable from the output on your cable/satellite box to an HDMI input on your TV or receiver. The TV or Receiver will usually have an HDMI input designated for Cable/Satellite use. Connecting with HDMI is quite a simple process and should work no problem considering you connected your receiver to your TV like I talked about in the step above. Don't celebrate just yet though, you might not be totally done. Most components and some receivers require you to go to the systems menu and change the connection type manually to a component video or HDMI connection depending on what it is connected with. Make sure that you check to see if your components require you to do this. If you don't you may see a picture in a purple hazy color or no picture at all until you change the settings. Connecting with Component Video Although there are a few more connections you have to make, component video is not very hard to connect. Lets say you decide to connect your cable/satellite box and an Up-Conversion DVD player with component video. The cable/satellite box will be almost the same as the HDMI setup but with a few more connections. First connect the Component Video cable from your cable/satellite box to your receiver (make sure you match up the red, green and blue cables with the proper inputs). Then make sure that you also make an audio connection. Hopefully you inspected your cable/satellite box to see what kinds of audio connections that it has. If you have a digital audio connection I suggest using a Fiber Optic Cable or a Digital Coax Cable because they carry a cleaner digital signal, but if they aren't available Analog Audio works just fine. You only have to make one connection with audio cables, which means you dont have to go from the receiver to the TV with audio. A Few Things To Remember If you don't get a picture right away don't panic, you may have to manually switch your component to the video mode you want it in like Component or HDMI. Consult your owners manual. Not everything will be broadcast in HD, there are certain channels that your cable or satellite service will provide in High Definition but the rest will just be standard. You need a High Definition Cable/Satellite box to receive a high definition signal, regular digital cable will not broadcast high def. You should now be ready to enjoy your High Definition Home Entertainment System. High Definition will give you a viewing experience like no other if you set it up correctly. If you have purchased any components or cables from us, our technical support team will be glad to assist you in your installation free of charge, call them at 1-866-224-6171.
Remember the days when the only connections available on TV's were stereo audio and composite video (the red, white and yellow inputs) and it only took about a minute to hook up components? Well those days are over and things have gotten a little more complex. For those of you who have never owned a high def or flat panel TV , you might be a little intimidated by the back panel the first time you look at it. High Definition TV's these days can have over 10 inputs with many different kinds of connections available. A person who isn't used to dealing with home theater systems will probably have no clue what to do with them or what they are even for, and even some tech savvy people might get confused. The cable guy isn't necessarily your best option either. Some know exactly what their doing while others could take the easy way out just to get the job done. Hopefully I can explain what these inputs are used for and which cables you should consider when connecting components to your new HDTV in order to get the best possible picture and sound. There are a lot of people out there who think that anything connected to a High Definition Television will play in High Definition. This couldn't be farther from the truth, just because your TV can show an HD picture doesn't mean that it will. Now don't go throwing your new TV in the trash-because the TV is not the problem. Before you spend a lot of money on components for your TV you need to make sure that they are able to produce a High Definition signal. You also need to make sure that any components you currently own are capable of handling High Definition if you are planning to use them for High Definition viewing. Older components like VCR's will not handle HD because the technology was not available when they were produced. Having the wrong components can cause you a lot of wasted time and frustration in the HD process. A component is probably HD compatible if somewhere on the box it says: HD Compatible HDMI Capable of 720p, 1080i or 1080p Resolutions SimplayHD The next thing to keep in mind is that not all high definition televisions are created equal. You need to look at the specifications of an HDTV before you buy it. Some HDTV's can not accept every High Definition resolution available. If the TV you are buying only has a native resolution of 720p, you may not get to see images in 1080i and won't see them in 1080p because the TV simply can't do it. If I were in the market for a new HDTV, I would buy one that gave me the option of using every connection and resolution available for High Definition so I could use it in any way I wanted. This is a big investment, don't sell yourself short by getting a cheaper TV that limits your options. High Definition Connections Probably one of the most overlooked parts of the HD process is the connections. You need to have the right cables in order to pass a High Definition signal from one component to the next. There are 3 types of video cable that will carry a high definition signal: Component Video Cables (720p/1080i) HDMI to DVI Cables (720p/1080i) HDMI Cables (720p/1080i/1080p) These are the only three cables that will give you a high definition signal! To figure out which ones you can use for your system, you need to check what connections are available on both your HDTV and your components. For example Blu-Ray Disc or HD DVD players require HDMI cables for full 1080p but also have component connections, regular DVD players can come with both component video connections, HDMI connections or both. A few more things to consider before making expensive High Definition purchases The Right Connections - Be sure that the home theater receiver, HDTV and components you are connecting have the connections that you need for High Definition. After you are sure of your connections, get the cables that are compatible with them. Number of HD Connections - Make sure that you know how many High Definition connections your TV and/or receiver have. Most HDTV's and receivers have only two HDMI inputs. If you only have 2 HDMI inputs, pick which two devices you want to run on HDMI and use Component Video for the rest. Look for the SimplayHD Logo - When looking for High Def components, we suggest looking for products that contain the Simplay HD logo on them. This assures you that the product is compatible with all fromats of HDMI and has been regulated by Simplay Labs the leader in HD testing. Monster HDMI cables and Yamaha Receivers are examples of Simplay HD certified products. Get Enough Cables - If you are going to run components from a home theater receiver to your HDTV, make sure you get an extra HDMI and/or Component Video Cable for the receiver's output to the TV. Example: If you are hooking up a Blu-Ray Disc Player and a High Def cable box with HDMI, you will need 3 HDMI cables. One for the Blu-Ray to the receiver, one for the cable box to the receiver and one for the receivers output to the HDTV. Keep it in the Family - Consider buying the same kinds of cable. Example: don't buy one expensive HDMI cable for the cable box to the receiver and one cheap one from the receiver to the TV. This is not a must but can help save you from compatibility problems. Don't Forget About Sound - If you are going with component video or HDMI to DVI cables you will also need audio cables to get sound. HDMI cables carry both video and audio in one cable. NOTE: Some receivers will not repeat the audio signal through HDMI, if you are getting no sound but are getting a picture this is probably the case . We suggest using a fiber optic audio or digital coaxial connection if available, but analog audio will work just fine if not, it just won't be as good as a digital connection. This is a lot to take in but if you do your research and plan out exactly what you will need, this whole process will be a lot easier. If you have any questions or want suggestions from us, post a reply to this article and we will try to answer your questions as best we can. Part II of this article will involve the actual connection of your High Definition components to your home theater system and which connections will maximize your HD experience.