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	<title>Comments for Your Electronic Warehouse Blog by The Electronics Guru</title>
	<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog</link>
	<description>Your source for everything electronics - reviews, recommendations, how-to's, news and more.</description>
	<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:54:48 +0000</pubDate>
	<generator>http://wordpress.org/?v=2.2.2</generator>

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		<title>Comment on How to Get Whole House Audio from Your Existing Stereo System by Electronics Guru</title>
		<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/whole-house-audio-from-existing-stereo-system.html#comment-131161</link>
		<author>Electronics Guru</author>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:31:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/whole-house-audio-from-existing-stereo-system.html#comment-131161</guid>
		<description>Chris:

There's no easy answer here. With so many components, the weakest link could be any of the components or a combination thereof. Some things to check/consider:

1. What is the music's source? Bad files, scratched discs or faulty connections -- even worn out DACs -- could be causing the problem.

2. Have you check each speaker by itself? Switch the speakers to see if the noise is from the same speaker or coming from a particular channel. If the noise stays with the same speaker despite being on a different channel, then it's likely a speaker issue. If the noise doesn't follow the speaker, then it's somewhere in the interconnects or at the source.

3. Are the components staying cool? Are connections secure? Any loose wires or damaged cables?

4. Does the sound intensify or go away if any of the components, like volume controls, are adjusted or removed from the system? Are there other non-system components that could be messing up your sound, like plasma TVs, fluorescent lights or heavy vibrations.

Without being there to examine the setup and run some trial-and-error diagnostics I can't say for sure. But try some of the simple stuff above and see if you can locate the problem. It could be as simple as switching from a digital connection to analog, or vice versa, or replacing worn cables or faulty controls.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Chris:</p>
<p>There&#8217;s no easy answer here. With so many components, the weakest link could be any of the components or a combination thereof. Some things to check/consider:</p>
<p>1. What is the music&#8217;s source? Bad files, scratched discs or faulty connections &#8212; even worn out DACs &#8212; could be causing the problem.</p>
<p>2. Have you check each speaker by itself? Switch the speakers to see if the noise is from the same speaker or coming from a particular channel. If the noise stays with the same speaker despite being on a different channel, then it&#8217;s likely a speaker issue. If the noise doesn&#8217;t follow the speaker, then it&#8217;s somewhere in the interconnects or at the source.</p>
<p>3. Are the components staying cool? Are connections secure? Any loose wires or damaged cables?</p>
<p>4. Does the sound intensify or go away if any of the components, like volume controls, are adjusted or removed from the system? Are there other non-system components that could be messing up your sound, like plasma TVs, fluorescent lights or heavy vibrations.</p>
<p>Without being there to examine the setup and run some trial-and-error diagnostics I can&#8217;t say for sure. But try some of the simple stuff above and see if you can locate the problem. It could be as simple as switching from a digital connection to analog, or vice versa, or replacing worn cables or faulty controls.</p>
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		<title>Comment on Placing Your Bose&#174; Home Theater Systems and Speakers by Electronics Guru</title>
		<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/placing-your-bose-home-theater-systems-and-speakers.html#comment-131159</link>
		<author>Electronics Guru</author>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:17:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/placing-your-bose-home-theater-systems-and-speakers.html#comment-131159</guid>
		<description>Todd:

Rest easy knowing that selecting the wrong language is a common issue. Fortunately it's pretty easy to change. The first step is to press the "system" on your remote control. Next, navigate on-screen (your TV has to be on since the setup is on the screen) to the "console" list, which is represented by an icon that looks like your V20 unit. From there you scroll to the language option -- which is the second or third from the top I think -- and select English.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Todd:</p>
<p>Rest easy knowing that selecting the wrong language is a common issue. Fortunately it&#8217;s pretty easy to change. The first step is to press the &#8220;system&#8221; on your remote control. Next, navigate on-screen (your TV has to be on since the setup is on the screen) to the &#8220;console&#8221; list, which is represented by an icon that looks like your V20 unit. From there you scroll to the language option &#8212; which is the second or third from the top I think &#8212; and select English.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Use a Balun for Audio or Video by Electronics Guru</title>
		<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/how-to-use-a-balun-for-audio-or-video.html#comment-131157</link>
		<author>Electronics Guru</author>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:12:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/how-to-use-a-balun-for-audio-or-video.html#comment-131157</guid>
		<description>Roland:

The general feeling among people who work with CAT5 is to never splice it! One issue is the twisted pairs, which will be wrecked when the wires are cut and attempted to be re-twisted and re-connected; another is the broken seal (insulation and cover) that has to be redone with tape or wire connectors. All of this leads to (a) weaker physical strength, (b) higher chances of crosstalk, interference and signal loss, (c) reduced data rates, and (d) more problems you'll have to fix later.

Do yourself a favor and buy a longer CAT5 cable, or at the very least a coupler so you can retain the cables' integrity. Notice in the diagram above there are no splices, and it's stressed in the text to retain cable integrity by making direct connections with cable terminations.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Roland:</p>
<p>The general feeling among people who work with CAT5 is to never splice it! One issue is the twisted pairs, which will be wrecked when the wires are cut and attempted to be re-twisted and re-connected; another is the broken seal (insulation and cover) that has to be redone with tape or wire connectors. All of this leads to (a) weaker physical strength, (b) higher chances of crosstalk, interference and signal loss, (c) reduced data rates, and (d) more problems you&#8217;ll have to fix later.</p>
<p>Do yourself a favor and buy a longer CAT5 cable, or at the very least a coupler so you can retain the cables&#8217; integrity. Notice in the diagram above there are no splices, and it&#8217;s stressed in the text to retain cable integrity by making direct connections with cable terminations.</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to get the most out of your HDTV Part 1: The Basics by Electronics Guru</title>
		<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/how-to-get-the-most-out-of-your-hdtv-part-1-the-basics.html#comment-131155</link>
		<author>Electronics Guru</author>
		<pubDate>Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:54:26 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/how-to-get-the-most-out-of-your-hdtv-part-1-the-basics.html#comment-131155</guid>
		<description>Kirby:

If your TV is an HDTV it will have at least one set of component jacks. While not included in the PS3 box, we sell the cable kits that enable full HD from the PS3 using component connections.

Component + stereo: http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/products/monster/ps3-cva-10.html
Component + surround: http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/products/monster/ps3-cvfo-10.html

If your TV is not HD, there is no way to get an HD picture, but you can still run the PS3 through the TV using any of the connections present, provided you have the cables (eg: s-video, component, composite, etc.).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kirby:</p>
<p>If your TV is an HDTV it will have at least one set of component jacks. While not included in the PS3 box, we sell the cable kits that enable full HD from the PS3 using component connections.</p>
<p>Component + stereo: <a href="http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/products/monster/ps3-cva-10.html">http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/products/monster/ps3-cva-10.html</a><br />
Component + surround: <a href="http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/products/monster/ps3-cvfo-10.html">http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/products/monster/ps3-cvfo-10.html</a></p>
<p>If your TV is not HD, there is no way to get an HD picture, but you can still run the PS3 through the TV using any of the connections present, provided you have the cables (eg: s-video, component, composite, etc.).</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to get the most out of your HDTV Part 1: The Basics by Kirby</title>
		<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/how-to-get-the-most-out-of-your-hdtv-part-1-the-basics.html#comment-131153</link>
		<author>Kirby</author>
		<pubDate>Fri, 13 Nov 2009 00:41:30 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/how-to-get-the-most-out-of-your-hdtv-part-1-the-basics.html#comment-131153</guid>
		<description>I have two Big screen tv's that both have HD compatible with no HDMI connections. I want to hook up PS3 and wonder how to get a HD picture out of the tv. Some kind of converter??  Thx</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I have two Big screen tv&#8217;s that both have HD compatible with no HDMI connections. I want to hook up PS3 and wonder how to get a HD picture out of the tv. Some kind of converter??  Thx</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Use a Balun for Audio or Video by Roland Alden</title>
		<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/how-to-use-a-balun-for-audio-or-video.html#comment-131151</link>
		<author>Roland Alden</author>
		<pubDate>Wed, 11 Nov 2009 18:16:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/how-to-use-a-balun-for-audio-or-video.html#comment-131151</guid>
		<description>My cat5 runs meet at a panel and have to be spliced to create a single run from point A to point B. Will one splice in the middle somewhere screw things up?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>My cat5 runs meet at a panel and have to be spliced to create a single run from point A to point B. Will one splice in the middle somewhere screw things up?</p>
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		<title>Comment on Placing Your Bose&#174; Home Theater Systems and Speakers by todd</title>
		<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/placing-your-bose-home-theater-systems-and-speakers.html#comment-131149</link>
		<author>todd</author>
		<pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 20:23:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/placing-your-bose-home-theater-systems-and-speakers.html#comment-131149</guid>
		<description>After first power on of my new V20, I accidentally picked german instead of english.  How do I reset so I can start over?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>After first power on of my new V20, I accidentally picked german instead of english.  How do I reset so I can start over?</p>
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		<title>Comment on How to Get Whole House Audio from Your Existing Stereo System by Chris</title>
		<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/whole-house-audio-from-existing-stereo-system.html#comment-131147</link>
		<author>Chris</author>
		<pubDate>Thu, 05 Nov 2009 01:43:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/whole-house-audio-from-existing-stereo-system.html#comment-131147</guid>
		<description>Hey I have a Harmon Kardon AVR 146 hooked up to 3 pair of 100watt 8 ohm speakers with a 4 zone speaker selector switch with amp power protect. I have 2 volume controls on 2 pair of the speakers. A outdoor volume control and a regular volume control with the ohm load set to 1x. Everything works fine but when i play my music long enough the speakers start making a cracking noise. Im not sure what the problem can be.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hey I have a Harmon Kardon AVR 146 hooked up to 3 pair of 100watt 8 ohm speakers with a 4 zone speaker selector switch with amp power protect. I have 2 volume controls on 2 pair of the speakers. A outdoor volume control and a regular volume control with the ohm load set to 1x. Everything works fine but when i play my music long enough the speakers start making a cracking noise. Im not sure what the problem can be.</p>
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		<title>Comment on New Niles Audio Infrared IR Sensors: High Fidelity Wideband Amplifier and Universal Noise Suppression by Electronics Guru</title>
		<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/new-niles-audio-infrared-ir-sensors-high-fidelity-wideband-amplifier-and-universal-noise-suppression.html#comment-131145</link>
		<author>Electronics Guru</author>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Nov 2009 23:10:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/new-niles-audio-infrared-ir-sensors-high-fidelity-wideband-amplifier-and-universal-noise-suppression.html#comment-131145</guid>
		<description>Gene:

If you don't have a Niles MSU-140 and/or MSU-250 hub you will need a new system, specifically the MS-220 and MF-1's. Please call 1-866-224-6171 and talk to one of our reps -- they can walk you through what needs to be done and help answer any questions you might have.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Gene:</p>
<p>If you don&#8217;t have a Niles MSU-140 and/or MSU-250 hub you will need a new system, specifically the MS-220 and MF-1&#8217;s. Please call 1-866-224-6171 and talk to one of our reps &#8212; they can walk you through what needs to be done and help answer any questions you might have.</p>
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		<title>Comment on New Niles Audio Infrared IR Sensors: High Fidelity Wideband Amplifier and Universal Noise Suppression by Gene Gill</title>
		<link>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/new-niles-audio-infrared-ir-sensors-high-fidelity-wideband-amplifier-and-universal-noise-suppression.html#comment-131143</link>
		<author>Gene Gill</author>
		<pubDate>Sun, 01 Nov 2009 16:35:02 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid>http://www.4electronicwarehouse.com/blog/new-niles-audio-infrared-ir-sensors-high-fidelity-wideband-amplifier-and-universal-noise-suppression.html#comment-131143</guid>
		<description>I had the Niles AV IR system installed several years ago when I had a plasma TV. Now I have an LCD, and the remote light stays on when the TV is on and will not work. I was told I need a new receiver to work with the LCD TV -- is this true, and if so, which receiver do I need? Thanks.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I had the Niles AV IR system installed several years ago when I had a plasma TV. Now I have an LCD, and the remote light stays on when the TV is on and will not work. I was told I need a new receiver to work with the LCD TV &#8212; is this true, and if so, which receiver do I need? Thanks.</p>
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